Barano is a charming Italian restaurant helmed by Albert Di Meglio, who named it for his grandmother’s birthplace on the tiny island of Ischia near Naples. She instilled in him a passion for the art of cooking, a heritage that he expresses in his hickory-smoked mozzarella, handmade pastas, pizza and wood-fired main courses. Di Meglio, formerly of Little Italy’s Rubirosa, is supported by a staff skilled in helping navigate the mostly Italian wine list and seasonal cocktail menu. You can book ahead at this Williamsburg destination, or arrive spontaneously and dine at the bar.