This sprawling, relaxed ode to Southern California is on the revamped Pier 17 in the Seaport District, sporting views of docked tall ships and the Brooklyn Bridge. Proprietor-chef Helene Henderson started out on a West Coast pier (in Malibu, naturally), with a mission to source ingredients from small farms and sustainable fisheries. Fish tacos and cauliflower crust “pizza” crowned with mozzarella and tomatoes are brightly flavored pleasures, as is the fried egg sandwich (when available)—one of the best around.