A novel design element sets this Upper West Side New American restaurant apart—accordion-style iron security gates hanging everywhere, even spread out over the ceiling. Locals of a certain age arrive for lunch and early dinners and a younger crowd takes over later, gathering at the expansive bar and lounge tables. Tessa is convenient, located near the Beacon Theater, the American Museum of Natural History and Central Park. The menu touches on Italian, French and Spanish flavors and changes seasonally. Expect an inventive selection of vegetable compositions, pasta, roasted fish and grilled meats.