Gertie is an all-day luncheonette, great for a morning egg-and-cheese bialy sandwich and a noontime big salad with tahini ranch dressing. In the evening, stop by for cocktails, rotisserie chicken and whole roasted brook trout. Although the schoolroom chairs and turntable lend the Williamsburg hangout a nostalgic vibe, it has a modern, good-for-the-planet sensibility. There’s a composting bin and, yes, paper straws.