Owner/chef Rawia Bishara is Palestinian, grew up in Nazareth, Israel, and named her restaurant for a town in Lebanon, so you know this isn't your standard Middle Eastern eatery. After 11 years in a modest storefront in Bay Ridge, she moved to a bigger, fancier spot nearby in late 2009, a testament to her success in the melting-pot neighborhood and beyond. Epicures are willing to travel far for food this good. The hummus and baba ghanoush are dreamy, the pita bread as big and stretchy as a hand towel. Grilled items, kebabs, meat pies and crunchy fattoush salad are equally satisfying.