Victor’s, in the theater district, has been a redoubt for high-end Cuban food for 50 years. In an airy space, the tropical theme is carried out with bright hand-painted murals, cane-backed chairs and old-time paddle fans gently waving in the rafters. The menu is more ambitious than a rice-and-beans joint, with both a classica menu of favorites like ropa vieja, skirt steak sautéed in onions, tomatoes, onions and peppers, then shredded by hand; and a neuva menu with ambitious fare like snapper, marinated in Seville oranges, and salmon, with a sugarcane glaze.